Over the year-end holidays, my travel bug led me to Chintheche, Lake Malawi—a famed stretch of pristine beach along the northern shores of the lake. Located about 40 kilometres south of Nkhata Bay Boma and 80 kilometres from Mzuzu, Chintheche is known for its serene and beautiful coastline.
Our journey from Mzuzu took us through beautiful mountain views, the Vizara rubber plantation and natural woodland.
The Road to Paradise: A Scenic Drive
The 46km long road to the lake was recently upgraded, making for a pleasant drive. This road is part of the M5 highway, which begins in Balaka and runs all the way through Salima and Nkhotakota to Mzuzu.
Despite being a wet morning, it was a beautiful drive through the lush green landscapes.
Local transport
The Mzuzu – Nkhata Bay road is serviced by many Toyota Sienta mini MPVs operating as taxis. They are almost always packed with people, bags of produce, and even livestock—a familiar sight on Malawi’s secondary roads where proper commuter buses are a rare find.
It had been a wet few days, and the clouds up ahead were not inspiring much confidence in us having a sunny holiday.
Crossing the Limphasa River in Nkhata Bay.
The Nkhata Bay Port
Nkhata Bay boma (town) overlooks Lake Malawi and Nkhata Bay jetty. It is a bit of a tight squeeze and a very bustling place! While the bay itself might be less picturesque, the energy of the trading centre is captivating.
Most of the activity was taking place around the trading centre. The bay was quiet except for canoes leaving and coming into.
Outside Nkhata Bay Port, the main lake port in northern Malawi. Vessels such as the MV Ilala depart from this port for the enclaves of Likoma and Chizumulu Islands in Lake Malawi, as well as ports further south in Salima and Mangochi.
After Nkhata Bay boma you drive through the Vizara Rubber Plantation. The estate was established by Sir Henry Wickham in 1876 and has approximately 600,000 rubber trees. Vizara means “horn of plenty” in the local Tonga language. The plantation also processes spent rubber trees into timber.
Then there are mangoes along the road. Lots of them. Roadside sellers around every bend and rotting ones under every other mango tree.
Finally, Chintheche!
After hours of travel from Lilongwe, the sight of Kawiya Bridge and the shimmering lake in the distance was a welcome relief. The beach was in sight, yay!
The next morning and it is overcast. Isn’t the beach always meant to be sunny? Oh, well…
A few years ago, almost all of these rocks would have been underwater. But over the years, water levels in Lake Malawi have been receding due to changing rainfall patterns in this part of Africa.
The early bird catches the spectacular sunrise. Day two. The sun was out in all its splendour. Now, what could ruin such a day?
Brewing storm?
Further north, a storm was brewing. I was not ready for another wet day. So NOT ready!
But it knew better than to ruin my day! It probably ruined someone else’s day across in Tanzania.
Daybreak at Sambani Lodge. The lodge was recommended by a family friend who comes from the area. It has decent lodging and friendly staff. The owner runs a local football league, and we arrived on the weekend of the finals. I saw many former football greats like Gilbert Chirwa and Meke Mwase, who came in for the tournament.
Food, glorious food!
Even though it was the closed fishing season, there was no shortage of delicious food. While fishing with nets is not allowed, rod and hook fishing is permitted. This meant a steady supply of fresh, grilled tilapia, locally known as Chambo. The meals were all wonderfully prepared, but the freshly baked hot scones for breakfast were my absolute favourite!
The owner of the lodge also told me that the choppy waters of the lake were a sign of a good catch for the next day, a local wisdom I was happy to learn.
The Perfect Escape
Aaah, life’s a beach! There’s nothing quite like sitting by the lake, listening to the gentle rhythm of the waves. It’s the perfect place to reflect and relax.
I also took a drive to the nearby Chintheche Inn, where I enjoyed a cold Carlsberg at the Bwato House Bar, a popular spot with a lovely beach.
Part of the beach at Chintheche Inn
As the sun set on the beach, I felt a deep sense of peace. Until next time, Chintheche!
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