The Masasa – Golomoti Road, popularly known as Khwekhwelele, is one of Malawi’s most captivating stretches of asphalt. The road carves its way through the mountains of Dedza and Ntcheu districts. Depending on the season you are travelling, every bend offers a spectacle of nature and life.
The 30 km stretch offers stunning scenery.
When the weather gods are smiling, you can see Lake Malawi in the distance.
The Khwekhwelele road descends some 1,176 metres in elevation from Masa to Golomoti. You would be wise to heed the warnings.
Roadside markets
In Malawi, the roadside can transform into vibrant marketplaces. Khwekhwelele is no exception. When in season, patches of the road turn into bustling mango markets. At other times of the year, one can buy tomatoes, cucumbers and other vegetables grown in dambos (shallow, seasonally waterlogged wetland) in the nearby villages.
You will also find craftsmen selling wooden toys, such as cars and aeroplanes, on the upper stretches of the road.
Khwekhwelele’s diverse transport
Ancient and modern modes of transport blend seamlessly on the Khwekhwelele Road.
A small-scale farmer bikes fertiliser to his field, while a woman proudly carries her harvested maize.
A South African-registered truck, most likely carrying a migrant worker’s belongings back to his village. A large number of men from Mangochi travel to South Africa in search of work opportunities. The Khwekhwelele road is a convenient shortcut from the Calomue (Mozambique)/ Dedza border point to Monkey Bay in Mangochi.
All forms of transport are used along this busy artery.
The most common means of transport is the tough little Sienta. The small taxis pack both people and goods. Unfortunately, it is also common to see burned-out shells of this type of vehicle along the road, usually as a result of overheating due to being packed beyond their capacity.
Breathtaking vistas: Khwekhwelele’s farewell
The last descent into the flat Golomoti and onwards to Mangochi.
