In Malawi, the rules of the road usually don’t count—especially when you’re sharing the roads and bridges with a few hundred kilograms of beef. These are the moments where my journey ground to a halt, and I realised I was on their time, not mine.
Bovine bottlenecks.
There is something uniquely charming about how cows own the road with such quiet, unbothered confidence.
The great Bua River bottleneck
Who needs traffic lights when you have a herd of Kasungu’s finest deciding when it’s your turn to cross?
A wall of horns
A slow herd of cattle. Unbothered and not giving way. Should I pull my side mirrors in?
As we approached, the herders moved the herd to one side… just enough, almost reluctantly.
Navigating the soft sands of Salima’s back roads, only to find the locals are having a stroll right in my path.
Salima speed traps
The speed limit on this sandy road to Senga Bay is dictated entirely by whoever has the most hooves.
Why use a lawnmower when you have a herd of grazers?
Mangochi’s mowing crew
These bovine locals were too busy enjoying the fresh greens to care about who was driving by.
The Mtendere pit stop
Not in anybody’s way. All these Dedza bovines wanted was a cool drink.
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